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Learning the shape of the days

Finding Treasure

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Breakfast on the balcony

​12/22-23/2025

We slept fairly late on our first real day in the Azores.  Catching up on sleep was important, and badly needed.  We left the apartment and headed downstairs for breakfast.

The apartment building has residences on the upper floors, and on the ground floor is retail space.  Actually…the ground floor is a mall.  The stores all open to a center court and many also open on the other side onto the street.  We had a very good breakfast at one of the restaurants on the ground floor and then were off to explore.
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The farmer's market near us

Our first stop was to pick up our rental car, a few blocks from where we are staying.  We bring it back and put it in the parking garage where we are staying.  After this, we walked a few blocks to check out the farmer’s market.

Ponta Delgada is on the island of Sao Miguel.  Consequently, anything that you buy here is either from the island or has to come in on a ship, with all of the additional costs, VAT (europe sales tax), etc.  With food prices in the US currently, one should expect things to be pricey.  ​
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Our produce from the market!

The farmer’s market is incredible!  As you can tell from the photos they have a wide selection of produce and such, much grown on the island.  We quickly discover how much things cost here.  Everything in the photo of all the produce we bought, including pepper sauce, eggs, mushrooms, etc. cost us the US equivalent of……$32.  Yes, you read that right.  Probably half what it costs in the US.

After this we do some more grocery shopping at a regular market to fill out our pantry.  We have a full apartment so we’ll eat at home some, especially over Christmas when many things will be closed.  We see Portuguese specialties like dried salt cod, that we have seen in other places in Portugal.
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Fish jerky

The dried salt cod looks nasty, basically fish jerky.  They soak it for a long time and get it soft again and use it in soups and other dishes.  It’s not native to the area, but something that has been a part of Portuguese culture for many years.  The next day we have a croquet made of the salt cod and actually found out it was quite tasty!  Go figure!

We did have a big disappointment however.  Our friends Maria and Bruce were expected to join us this weekend, but Maria has had a medical issue and they won’t be able to come.  All of us are very disappointed, but Maria needs to do what is best for her health.  We’ll try again next vacation. ​
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Out and about downtown

​We wander around town, which is decorated for the holidays.  We have treats at the Christmas market in the town square, take lots of photos, and hang out with the locals.  Kids enjoy carnival rides and others at the market buy mixed drinks, beer, and mulled wine from booths.  It’s a very festive and fun time!

We walk back to the apartment through a dark town, but well lit.  We never feel unsafe and lots of people are out and about.  Bars and restaurants are open, families are out, and women walk alone, not worried or feeling unsafe.  We end our day back at the apartment with snacks and tea.  We’re still a little tired but catching up.
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Our apartment from across the water

​We got up this morning and had breakfast on our balcony, overlooking the harbor.  It’s in the mid to upper 60’s and we sit in the sun and watch the ships and boats come and go.  It’s such a lovely way to have breakfast.

After breakfast we head to what the locals call “The China Store”.  These are all over town and are sort of the Azores equivalent to the Dollar General Store, full of cheap Chinese made things, but are incredibly helpful.  They are always owned and operated by an immigrant family from China.  We bought a few inexpensive things to make our time in the apartment more comfortable, then went back to the farmers market.
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Our butcher!

​We decided that since 90 percent of the restaurants in town would be closed on Christmas and Christmas eve, we would buy steaks for Christmas dinner.  We decided on sirloin but were told by the butcher he didn’t have any but he did have Filet Mignon. 

We wound up with two steaks about an inch and a half thick weighing a pound each.  I showed him with my fingers about an inch or so thick but he had a heavy hand and cut them right in front of us.  These two monstrous steaks in the US, at current prices would be about $40 US dollars.  These cost us around $17 USD.  Like the vegetables, steak is half (or less) what it is in the US.
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Taking a break

​We start to wander the city a bit more and we don’t go far until we stop at a cafe where we have small beers and tapas.  We sit with the locals, enjoying the wonderful weather and our drinks and food.  We watch the people walk past, meeting friends, shopping, enjoying the day just as we are.

We continue our walk, looking at the architecture, sitting in a park, and visiting the Jewish museum, always a big deal for Laurie.  There are no Jewish families in the Azores anymore.  The last two were the daughters of the rabbi and lived in the synagogue building until their deaths, more than 50 years ago.  The building sat in disrepair for over 5 decades.
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The restored synagogue

​In 2009, the city decided to restore the synagogue and turn it into the Jewish museum.  They’ve done a wonderful job, and the building and associated museum displays were top notch.  Laurie really enjoyed the visit and I found it very informative, a great piece of not only Jewish history but the history of the Azores.

 After this we wound up stopping at a booth in one of the parks for coffee.  We sit at a table in the park and have a short coffee break while we watch the city breeze past.  At the entrance of the park is a huge monument celebrating the immigrants who, over the years, helped build the Azores into what they are today.
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Monument to the immigrants

​After this we wander across the street to another museum.  It is housed in a fort originally built in 1552.  It was built to defend from pirates, apparently somewhat of a menace at that time.  It survives today, still mostly intact and for a 3 euro (around $3.50 USD) entrance fee you can walk the grounds and go up on the walls of the fort.

The fort has great views of the harbor, and to be honest…..it’s just kinda cool!  We look at the exhibits, look out at the ships in the harbor, and enjoy our wandering.  After this we stroll down the waterfront and watch the sunset.
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Hanging out at the fort

​When the sun gets low in the sky, it lights the building in that gold, end of day light.  It brings out the colors in things you normally don’t see, and it makes for great photos.  We both shoot photos of the sunset, the harbor, and everything around us bathed in the light.

The restaurants here keep similar hours to Spain and mainland Portugal.  They are open from noon until 3:00 PM.  They close until 6 PM and are usually open until about 10 PM.  Like the mainland they have a late evening culture, with all the locals out for dinner and drinks.
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Laurie in Indian food heaven!

Laurie loves Indian food.  I’m not a big fan but there are a few dishes I’ll eat.  I especially like naan, which is a freshly made Indian bread, served hot.  Laurie chose something she just loved, and I had an Asian fusion chicken dish that was very good.  A word of warning….the chili naan was incredibly good and so spicy that I think it may have been part of a secret plot to kill me.

We head back to the apartment, edit photos, sit on the balcony, and I work on the blog.  Tomorrow is Christmas eve and everything will close in the early afternoon.  We plan to pick up a few last minute things (like fresh baked bread) before the town shuts down. ​
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Sundown

The past few years have been tough, with so many medical things to get Laurie healthy.  I see so much hate, anger, and pain in the world nowadays.  I carry the memory of all these things with me and these paint my perceptions and views of the world.  We get older every day. But we’re still in the game.  

I spent a day with Laurie, wandering a city in another country.  Together, we discovered new things.  We enjoyed simple pleasures like a coffee at a sidewalk cafe, or sitting on a bench and watching the people walk by.  We met new people.  It was free of pain, worry, and strife.  It was not a day of excitement and adventure.  It was easy and simple, in the company of the one I love.

Today was a treasure.

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