Good days and bad days (weather)
Just a little rain
12/30/25
We decided to start on the coast yesterday and finish the day out at a specific activity. We haven’t spent much time on the north coast so we headed up there. We’ve fell into a habit of sleeping late and getting out late morning at the earliest. This leaves us about 5 hours to wander which is more than enough. I like not having the days packed with back to back things.
We stop at one of the tea plantations and wander the grounds. The plantation looks down onto the sea and we were graced with a rainbow! The weather is constantly changing here so things like rainbows, fog, rain, and mist come and go quickly. Unless it’s heavy rain then it seems to stick around all day.
We decided to start on the coast yesterday and finish the day out at a specific activity. We haven’t spent much time on the north coast so we headed up there. We’ve fell into a habit of sleeping late and getting out late morning at the earliest. This leaves us about 5 hours to wander which is more than enough. I like not having the days packed with back to back things.
We stop at one of the tea plantations and wander the grounds. The plantation looks down onto the sea and we were graced with a rainbow! The weather is constantly changing here so things like rainbows, fog, rain, and mist come and go quickly. Unless it’s heavy rain then it seems to stick around all day.
Tea time!
We go through small towns with incredibly narrow streets, a common thing around here. I love seeing a sign showing a car parked on the sidewalk….with the intent of getting drivers to actually park ON the sideway. Navigation is challenging.
While we’re on the subject of navigation, let’s discuss maps. We have found Google maps to be………helpful. Sometimes. They’re also very frustrating at others. We have had them tell us to turn right at the next corner, and the map showing a left turn. We followed the map as we knew that left was the correct direction. This happens often.
While we’re on the subject of navigation, let’s discuss maps. We have found Google maps to be………helpful. Sometimes. They’re also very frustrating at others. We have had them tell us to turn right at the next corner, and the map showing a left turn. We followed the map as we knew that left was the correct direction. This happens often.
Google maps says we can drive through here
We’ve also had Google maps get “lost” and start to “spin”. It can’t figure out where it is, and will flip back and forth repeatedly. When you get about a block away it straightens out and does okay. Until the next time. I got a paper map from Amazon before we left and have found it very useful. If you’re going to drive a lot here I recommend getting one.
We wind up in the town of Furnas around 3:30 p.m. and have booked a hot springs visit. We park about a block away at the school and walk in. The water is high in iron and will stain things so we rent towels from the hot spring folks. These towels are wisely the color of the orange stuff in the water so you can’t tell if they are stained.
We wind up in the town of Furnas around 3:30 p.m. and have booked a hot springs visit. We park about a block away at the school and walk in. The water is high in iron and will stain things so we rent towels from the hot spring folks. These towels are wisely the color of the orange stuff in the water so you can’t tell if they are stained.
Poça da Dona Beija hot springs
We also rent a locker and after changing put our stuff in the locker. The spring has 4 different pools but all are around 39 degrees Celcius or 102 Fahrenheit. There are a lot of people there but enough room so everyone can enjoy the springs.
There are 4 pools of differing design and depth and we end up going to all four. One has a full length waterfall that looked cool but you quickly found out that the air behind the waterfall was high humidity and 102 degrees….so you don’t stay long. The water also has a bit of a sulfur smell due to the volcanic origin.
There are 4 pools of differing design and depth and we end up going to all four. One has a full length waterfall that looked cool but you quickly found out that the air behind the waterfall was high humidity and 102 degrees….so you don’t stay long. The water also has a bit of a sulfur smell due to the volcanic origin.
Steam coming off of the hot springs
When I got out after spending around an hour in the water, I was a little dizzy. It turns out this is due to the springs elevating your body temperature then your body quickly cooling when you get out. It’s definitely a shock to the system and it caught me by surprise.
We finish our visit and go back to change clothes. They have coin operated hot showers so you can wash up when you get out, and I recommend you do. Otherwise your clothes will smell like sulfur water. After our showers we have a drink at one of the local supermarkets (they have a dining area) and head back toward the city.
We finish our visit and go back to change clothes. They have coin operated hot showers so you can wash up when you get out, and I recommend you do. Otherwise your clothes will smell like sulfur water. After our showers we have a drink at one of the local supermarkets (they have a dining area) and head back toward the city.
North coast deep blue water
Today (12/30), we make another late morning departure from the apartment and head to the north coast to explore a bit more. The island is only ten miles wide so getting there doesn’t take very long. We bounce from small town to small town taking in the views on the coast.
We stop at a cafe we visited on a previous trip. It’s in a town known for whale hunting in years past, with the remnants of a whale rendering plant across the street. We order a Befina (pork) sandwich with fries and split it. It’s huge and more than enough for two.
We stop at a cafe we visited on a previous trip. It’s in a town known for whale hunting in years past, with the remnants of a whale rendering plant across the street. We order a Befina (pork) sandwich with fries and split it. It’s huge and more than enough for two.
Our lunch cafe
Cost for this? 6.30 Euros or $7.40 USD and the quality was exceptional. In the states this would have cost twice as much. Food prices here in both the restaurant and the grocery store are half what they are in the states.
While there, a man comes in the cafe. He laughs very loudly for no reason, pauses for a little while, then does it again. I study him and he is well dressed, has brand new shoes, has a cell phone. Other than the fact he laughs loudly every few minutes he’s no different than everyone else.
While there, a man comes in the cafe. He laughs very loudly for no reason, pauses for a little while, then does it again. I study him and he is well dressed, has brand new shoes, has a cell phone. Other than the fact he laughs loudly every few minutes he’s no different than everyone else.
Bill on the north shore
We figured out that he has Tourette’s syndrome and confirmed this with the waiter. He is a regular, comes in and has a coffee and cigarette outside on the balcony so he doesn’t disturb others, then leaves. I wish I spoke better Portuguese and could have talked with him.
I notice that people do stay away from him due to the laughing outburst but I know he can’t help it. Sometimes the kindest thing we can do for those who are different is to accept them for who they are and let them have a coffee and cigarette in peace. He was a reminder to me that we all need to be kinder and more accepting to those who are different……..something that too many have forgotten.
I notice that people do stay away from him due to the laughing outburst but I know he can’t help it. Sometimes the kindest thing we can do for those who are different is to accept them for who they are and let them have a coffee and cigarette in peace. He was a reminder to me that we all need to be kinder and more accepting to those who are different……..something that too many have forgotten.
Before the rain
We head out and it starts to rain. Soon it is raining HARD. We try to put on rain gear and look at some of the views but this is simply not possible. Eventually we give up and head back to the apartment. Sometimes you just have to throw in the towel….and use it to dry off from the rain.
We have dinner at the ramen restaurant downstairs and I pop over to the grocery store next door. Grocery prices here amaze me. Every time they ring me up, I keep wondering if it is a mistake. Fresh baked bread, crackers, bottled water, jello, banannas and oranges. Total cost? $7.02 US dollars. Edit- I just read an article where many things in the Azores cost twice what they do on the mainland of Portugal. So on the mainland figure even less than $7.02!
Now a bit from Laurie!
We have dinner at the ramen restaurant downstairs and I pop over to the grocery store next door. Grocery prices here amaze me. Every time they ring me up, I keep wondering if it is a mistake. Fresh baked bread, crackers, bottled water, jello, banannas and oranges. Total cost? $7.02 US dollars. Edit- I just read an article where many things in the Azores cost twice what they do on the mainland of Portugal. So on the mainland figure even less than $7.02!
Now a bit from Laurie!
$7.02 US dollars.
Hi from Laurie!
The society here seems pretty relaxed compared to what is going on in the US right now. People are helpful here but not overly friendly. But it seems that for the most part, people are going about their days without infringing on anyone else.
For example, smoking cigarettes is totally the norm here. Most restaurants have both indoor and outdoor seating. The outside tables all have ash trays. Smoking is not allowed in our apartment but it is on the balcony and an ashtray has been provided. Likewise with drinking. It is common to see people having a beer at 10am in a cafe along with people drinking coffee. Of course it is the holiday season but I get the sense that it isn’t outside the norm here.
For example, smoking cigarettes is totally the norm here. Most restaurants have both indoor and outdoor seating. The outside tables all have ash trays. Smoking is not allowed in our apartment but it is on the balcony and an ashtray has been provided. Likewise with drinking. It is common to see people having a beer at 10am in a cafe along with people drinking coffee. Of course it is the holiday season but I get the sense that it isn’t outside the norm here.
A typical town church
That being said, 90% of the people in Portugal identify as being Catholic but only 19% of those attend mass regularly (according to AI). There is at least one large church in every town no matter the size of the town. The architecture of these churches is very consistent. As is the architecture of town halls which look a lot like churches.
Christmas was not a big public fanfare holiday in Ponta Delgada but in one town we drove through, there were many more decorations and a big nativity scene. I imagine the involvement with the church varies but is probably greater in the smaller towns where the church may be the focal point of social and community gatherings. And interestingly enough, for a predominantly Catholic culture, abortion is legal here.
Christmas was not a big public fanfare holiday in Ponta Delgada but in one town we drove through, there were many more decorations and a big nativity scene. I imagine the involvement with the church varies but is probably greater in the smaller towns where the church may be the focal point of social and community gatherings. And interestingly enough, for a predominantly Catholic culture, abortion is legal here.
Typical town street
Another thing that is pretty cool is the number of bookstores. Even in the small towns there are bookstores and pretty big libraries. The culture seems to encourage physical fitness and there are people swimming in the ocean here in Ponta Delgado. In one town we were in there was a natural ocean pool but nobody was swimming in it today. The water is about 60F, the same pretty much as the air temp.
It being the rainy season here we expected some foul weather. But so far we have only had 2 days of really horrid weather. One was Bill’s birthday on Sunday when we had gale force winds and driving rain. Today was not quite as windy but by 3pm we decided to head for home because it was absolutely pouring. So there is some in between weather but when the rain moves in, it RAINS.
It being the rainy season here we expected some foul weather. But so far we have only had 2 days of really horrid weather. One was Bill’s birthday on Sunday when we had gale force winds and driving rain. Today was not quite as windy but by 3pm we decided to head for home because it was absolutely pouring. So there is some in between weather but when the rain moves in, it RAINS.
More than a little rain
We did break out our rain pants and coats to step out of the car for a few minutes but quickly retreated. I had bought my raincoat at REI and it is very comfortable but unfortunately did not stand up to blowing sideways rain even though the sales person assured me it would. I have a thing about rain coats and have yet to find the perfect one. Rain pants did pretty well and the Merrell waterproof sneakers I bought in Ohio were perfect.
We have had a pretty relaxing vacation without any set schedule. So if it rains we just come home and so far it has only rained later in the afternoon and at night. It doesn't get light here until about 8am and gets dark by 5ish unless it’s cloudy, and then it’s more 8:30ish to 4:30ish. I have been staying up later than I usually do and sleeping later trying to take advantage of staying present and not having to get up and be somewhere.
We have had a pretty relaxing vacation without any set schedule. So if it rains we just come home and so far it has only rained later in the afternoon and at night. It doesn't get light here until about 8am and gets dark by 5ish unless it’s cloudy, and then it’s more 8:30ish to 4:30ish. I have been staying up later than I usually do and sleeping later trying to take advantage of staying present and not having to get up and be somewhere.
Tea plantation
I have been able to stay up later and get up later than I do at home. My mornings still start earlier than Bill’s and since I don’t have to be anywhere I can journal, do some yoga, meditate, and generally ease into my day. I have intentionally left my phone alone in the morning and hope to hang onto behavior when I get home.
One of the nice things about renting an apartment is being able to prepare meals here, especially breakfast. Part of that whole not having to be somewhere early. It turns out there were restaurants open Xmas day but we had bought food to make here. We haven’t had a bad meal but my favorites have been ethnic ones rather than traditional Portuguese food.
One of the nice things about renting an apartment is being able to prepare meals here, especially breakfast. Part of that whole not having to be somewhere early. It turns out there were restaurants open Xmas day but we had bought food to make here. We haven’t had a bad meal but my favorites have been ethnic ones rather than traditional Portuguese food.
Crumbling oceanfront houses
Soup is one of my favorite foods and is a traditional food here. The quality varies quite a bit. But we have had really good Indian and Asian food. There is an excellent bakery right downstairs and on Christmas they made a traditional Christmas cake called bolo-rei - king cake. It is round with a hole in the center and generally a type of fruit cake but varies quite a bit. On Christmas day there were people lined up to pick theirs up from this bakery.
There is a consistency to the towns here. Streets are so narrow, people generally park on the sidewalks. The style of buildings is the same. Abandoned buildings are interspersed with ones that are clearly lived in. Different stores and markets, cafes seem randomly tucked in between residential buildings. There doesn’t seem to be the renovations that are occurring in Ponta Delgado. While I enjoy visiting here, I would not want to live where driving is such a challenge. Cars are smaller and include a lot of tiny smart cars.
There is a consistency to the towns here. Streets are so narrow, people generally park on the sidewalks. The style of buildings is the same. Abandoned buildings are interspersed with ones that are clearly lived in. Different stores and markets, cafes seem randomly tucked in between residential buildings. There doesn’t seem to be the renovations that are occurring in Ponta Delgado. While I enjoy visiting here, I would not want to live where driving is such a challenge. Cars are smaller and include a lot of tiny smart cars.
Citroen "Ami", king of the tiny cars
The coastline is beautiful, rocky and clearly volcanic. There are only a few real beaches as the coastline is dominated by cliffs. Stone fences separate fields and create a patchwork, quilted landscape of intensely green fields. Succulents, aloe vera, hydrangeas all grow wild here and line the cliffs and stone fences. The contrast of the black rocks, green fields and blue ocean make the coast a post card waiting to be taken.
We did manage to get to a thermal pool. It’s one of those things one is supposed to do here. It wasn’t the best experience although it was a beautiful setting. It was crowded, and not particularly relaxing. The average temp was about 102F. There are several commercial places and one that is ‘wild’, but we probably won’t get there this trip. That one is apparently only safe in low tide and when the ocean is calm.
We did manage to get to a thermal pool. It’s one of those things one is supposed to do here. It wasn’t the best experience although it was a beautiful setting. It was crowded, and not particularly relaxing. The average temp was about 102F. There are several commercial places and one that is ‘wild’, but we probably won’t get there this trip. That one is apparently only safe in low tide and when the ocean is calm.
Elephant rock
We researched which one to go to and the one we went to was supposed to be one of the nicer ones. The water is full of iron and there are deposits of iron on every surface. There is one pool at a hotel that is the color of rust. At least the water at this one was clear. The thermal pools in Iceland were much nicer.
Tomorrow we are off to the north east part of the island. It isn’t supposed to rain so we hope to get to a waterfall and a few other places. Then back to the apartment to walk over to the main square for the music and then to our balcony to watch the fireworks for new year’s eve. Wishing everyone a very happy new year!
Tomorrow we are off to the north east part of the island. It isn’t supposed to rain so we hope to get to a waterfall and a few other places. Then back to the apartment to walk over to the main square for the music and then to our balcony to watch the fireworks for new year’s eve. Wishing everyone a very happy new year!
