The real Iceland
Djúpavík Harbor
5/30/25
Today, we saw the real Iceland….and its name is Djúpavík.
We had a planned destination today and decided we would drive 106 miles round trip on a gravel road. To go swimming. This does sound odd but once you have the whole story you’ll understand.
Today, we saw the real Iceland….and its name is Djúpavík.
We had a planned destination today and decided we would drive 106 miles round trip on a gravel road. To go swimming. This does sound odd but once you have the whole story you’ll understand.
Along the way
We left our apartment on the Svansholl family farm and headed up the fjord. It was spotted with the typically amazing Iceland views, waterfalls, and picturesque farms. We had numerous stops along the way for photos, drone flights, and simply time to look.
We are in the least populous area in Iceland. It is dotted with family farms along the way, but few of those. We slow or stop to wait on sheep to clear the road. We just enjoy the ride. There is little out here, but that’s why we came.
We are in the least populous area in Iceland. It is dotted with family farms along the way, but few of those. We slow or stop to wait on sheep to clear the road. We just enjoy the ride. There is little out here, but that’s why we came.
Djúpavík village
We see the village of Djúpavík in the distance, a large smokestack and tanks are quite easy to see. As we enter the village we see a few people…but very few. We stop at the hotel and have coffee and a hotdog for me and a hot bowl of pumpkin soup for Laurie.
It’s one of those times that strikes me. It reminds me how far I’ve come and how much I’ve seen. I’m with the person I hold most dear sharing a simple meal in a tiny hotel in a village so incredibly remote it is hard to imagine. These are the times that stick with me and I remember, even years later.
It’s one of those times that strikes me. It reminds me how far I’ve come and how much I’ve seen. I’m with the person I hold most dear sharing a simple meal in a tiny hotel in a village so incredibly remote it is hard to imagine. These are the times that stick with me and I remember, even years later.
Pumpkin soup for lunch
Djúpavík has a population of 53…..but that’s not in the village. These 53 are scattered over 780 square kilometers or 301 square miles that make up Djúpavík. The village has what I’ve read was two year round and this rises to a total of five in the summer. There are several houses that are used during the summer but not in the winter.
The hotel owner and his wife run the hotel and the kitchen. The hotel has 8 rooms with shared baths. As with most hotels, breakfast is included. A large part of the downstairs is dining room/gathering area, with games and puzzles and a huge collection of antique items.
The hotel owner and his wife run the hotel and the kitchen. The hotel has 8 rooms with shared baths. As with most hotels, breakfast is included. A large part of the downstairs is dining room/gathering area, with games and puzzles and a huge collection of antique items.
Shipwreck at the herring factory
The town is dominated by an abandoned herring factory. The hotel was lodging for the women that worked at the herring factory, which ran off and on from the early 1900’s to around 1952 when the herring fishery collapsed. You can take a tour of the factory but we just wandered around.
While wandering we discovered an art installation inside the herring factory from artists all over the world! They were art pieces based upon the northern lights which I’m sure are simply amazing here. I’m traveling with someone who loves art, so this was a huge treat. She enjoyed it immensely.
While wandering we discovered an art installation inside the herring factory from artists all over the world! They were art pieces based upon the northern lights which I’m sure are simply amazing here. I’m traveling with someone who loves art, so this was a huge treat. She enjoyed it immensely.
Herring factory art
Djúpavík is the most “Iceland” place I’ve ever seen. It is incredibly remote and you really have to work to get here. There are celebrities who have been here to shoot a movie called “The Avengers” (Willem Dafoe and Ben Afleck) and the band Of Monsters and Men stayed in the hotel in Djúpavík to write songs for one of their albums.
I was so happy to find out that they sold T-shirts with the name of the village…..and you can bet money that I bought one. To say I liked Djúpavík is an incredible understatement. It is an amazing place and after three trips, my most favorite place in Iceland. I can think of no single place more “Icelandic”.
I was so happy to find out that they sold T-shirts with the name of the village…..and you can bet money that I bought one. To say I liked Djúpavík is an incredible understatement. It is an amazing place and after three trips, my most favorite place in Iceland. I can think of no single place more “Icelandic”.
The "other" herring factory
From here we take a road over the mountains to the other side of the fjord to another abandoned herring factory. I had seen it in videos and it is similar to the one in Djúpavík that was also abandoned when the herring fishery collapsed. Pieces of the machinery dot the area around the factory and spray painted messages on the wall tell you to keep out (in Icelandic). I had to translate.
We backtrack to the main road and follow it towards the end of the fjord. Nearly at the end of the road, we see our destination, Krossneslaug! It is a swimming pool heated with natural hot springs, looking out over the ocean. The views can’t be beat.
We backtrack to the main road and follow it towards the end of the fjord. Nearly at the end of the road, we see our destination, Krossneslaug! It is a swimming pool heated with natural hot springs, looking out over the ocean. The views can’t be beat.
Let's go swimming!
It had a nice bathroom/changing area, with showers. You can change clothes in a warm place then it’s only a few steps to the pool. The pool is probably in the upper 80’s and the hot tubs are around 98-102 depending on which you choose. It was such a wonderful swim, 53 miles off the paved road. It costs 1000 kroner per person to swim (around $7.85), a bargain in our book.
We are in the least populated part of Iceland and find such amazing places. It seems that in the Westfjords, the less there is…..the more there is. After the year we’ve had, sharing today with Laurie really touched me. I love her and sharing this day was so meaningful to me.
We are in the least populated part of Iceland and find such amazing places. It seems that in the Westfjords, the less there is…..the more there is. After the year we’ve had, sharing today with Laurie really touched me. I love her and sharing this day was so meaningful to me.
Along the way
Tomorrow we move from our farm stay and head south for Keflavik. I’ll post this as well as tomorrow’s travels from there.
Note- We've been quite busy traveling from place to place. Consequently I'm a day or two behind. I'll post this one and do the rest when we get home. Be sure to check out the Gallery!!!
Note- We've been quite busy traveling from place to place. Consequently I'm a day or two behind. I'll post this one and do the rest when we get home. Be sure to check out the Gallery!!!
