Adapt. Improvise. Overcome.
05/25/23
I try to be honest when I write about our travels. I write about what it is really like and I don’t sugar coat things. Most of the time it goes well and we have a fantastic time. I write about how wonderful and easy things are, the incredible places we see and the people we meet. I write about how it affects me and how visits to places change me.
When things don’t go well, I try to be honest about that. I am not a fan of people who write about wonderful and perfect traveI, places and trips where everything is flawless and nothing ever goes wrong. Unlike these people, I will be honest. For the last few days, things have not gone as planned.
I try to be honest when I write about our travels. I write about what it is really like and I don’t sugar coat things. Most of the time it goes well and we have a fantastic time. I write about how wonderful and easy things are, the incredible places we see and the people we meet. I write about how it affects me and how visits to places change me.
When things don’t go well, I try to be honest about that. I am not a fan of people who write about wonderful and perfect traveI, places and trips where everything is flawless and nothing ever goes wrong. Unlike these people, I will be honest. For the last few days, things have not gone as planned.
Seljalandsfoss. It was very wet.
Heading into this trip I was fighting an upper respiratory infection. Treatment included tons of antibiotics and a dose of steroids. This pretty much destroyed my sleep patterns and in the days before leaving for Iceland I had slept less than eight hours total for two nights. I was already sick and now I was exhausted.
This made the jump of time zones more difficult than any trip prior. While flights went well and there were no major issues, the stress of international travel while already not feeling well is tough. I slept a few hours on the plane and that’s it. I’m a mess.
This made the jump of time zones more difficult than any trip prior. While flights went well and there were no major issues, the stress of international travel while already not feeling well is tough. I slept a few hours on the plane and that’s it. I’m a mess.
Urridafoss. This place has more waterfalls than the NYC subway has rats!
We’re a couple days in and I’m finally getting it together. While not totally well, I do feel much better. I’m not great…..but I’m considerably better.
We’re currently on the south coast of Iceland. On the first day we arrived, we cleared customs quicker than expected and got our rental car. We found a cooler in a store in Keflavik and did some minor grocery shopping for snacks and such. We headed towards the south coast to our first stay in the Westman Islands.
While out exploring near the coast we took a gravel side road. I asked Laurie if I could take a nap on the side of the road as I was falling asleep driving. She read a book on her phone while I slept 20 minutes, probably the most needed 20 minutes of sleep my entire life.
We’re currently on the south coast of Iceland. On the first day we arrived, we cleared customs quicker than expected and got our rental car. We found a cooler in a store in Keflavik and did some minor grocery shopping for snacks and such. We headed towards the south coast to our first stay in the Westman Islands.
While out exploring near the coast we took a gravel side road. I asked Laurie if I could take a nap on the side of the road as I was falling asleep driving. She read a book on her phone while I slept 20 minutes, probably the most needed 20 minutes of sleep my entire life.
Seljalandsfoss stair to the top. Wife for scale.
Two days on a small island would be a great place to catch up, get me better, and get our bodies on Europe/Iceland time (5 hours difference from home). We planned to bird watch, explore, take it easy and relax, just heal up. It was going to be great.
To quote Robert Burns, the national poet of Scotland: “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” And they did.
Severe weather (very intense winds) in Iceland had caused many flights to cancel. We were lucky and arrived Keflavik with no problem. While making our way towards the Westman Islands to catch our 6:15 p.m. ferry I received an email stating that all of the morning ferries to the island were canceled due to dangerous seas, and they would make an announcement about afternoon and evening ferries at 1500 (3 p.m.)
To quote Robert Burns, the national poet of Scotland: “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” And they did.
Severe weather (very intense winds) in Iceland had caused many flights to cancel. We were lucky and arrived Keflavik with no problem. While making our way towards the Westman Islands to catch our 6:15 p.m. ferry I received an email stating that all of the morning ferries to the island were canceled due to dangerous seas, and they would make an announcement about afternoon and evening ferries at 1500 (3 p.m.)
Tour bus (a small one)
Just before 3 p.m. we received a call and were told that our ferry was canceled. While quite disappointed, we’re also wandering around southern Iceland on very little sleep and have no place to stay that night. We’re exhausted and just want to sleep.
Luckily I found a nice hotel out in the country called Hotel Kvika. Great room, great internet, free breakfast, for an unheard of Iceland lodging price of $100 a night. Airbnb actually gave us a refund as it wasn’t safe or even possible to travel to the place we were going to stay on the Westman Islands. We collapsed and slept 12 hours straight.
Luckily I found a nice hotel out in the country called Hotel Kvika. Great room, great internet, free breakfast, for an unheard of Iceland lodging price of $100 a night. Airbnb actually gave us a refund as it wasn’t safe or even possible to travel to the place we were going to stay on the Westman Islands. We collapsed and slept 12 hours straight.
Historic village of sod homes
We were truly disappointed about the Westmans. We were staying in an Airbnb spare bedroom in the home of a school teacher on the island. She loves hosting visitors and educating them about where she lives. We communicated many times before heading to Iceland and she even read our blog. We were sad this wasn’t going to happen.
After 12 hours of sleep it was a bit easier for us to make alternate plans. We spent today visiting a historic site, driving the back roads of Iceland, seeing several incredible waterfalls, and finding another hotel on a converted farm near Vik (another town on the south coast).
After 12 hours of sleep it was a bit easier for us to make alternate plans. We spent today visiting a historic site, driving the back roads of Iceland, seeing several incredible waterfalls, and finding another hotel on a converted farm near Vik (another town on the south coast).
Vik, Iceland
We had the most wonderful dinner at a restaurant in Vik. Laurie had fish stew which was more like Shepherds Pie made of fish. I had lamb chops and Laurie had Kahlua creme brulee for dessert. We did a short walk on a black sand beach and headed back to the hotel to sleep.
I like to write about where we’ve been the day we go. It makes it much easier to remember the details…..so I”m writing tonight but won’t edit the photos and put together the blog page until tomorrow night. I’m still tired and need rest. I’ll of course tag on tomorrow’s adventures when I post tomorrow night. It’s been a rough couple days…..but we’re working on it.
Adapt. Improvise. Overcome. We did. And tomorrow will be better.
I like to write about where we’ve been the day we go. It makes it much easier to remember the details…..so I”m writing tonight but won’t edit the photos and put together the blog page until tomorrow night. I’m still tired and need rest. I’ll of course tag on tomorrow’s adventures when I post tomorrow night. It’s been a rough couple days…..but we’re working on it.
Adapt. Improvise. Overcome. We did. And tomorrow will be better.
Even the sheep head for shelter
5/26/2023 (The tomorrow that was going to be better. The weather did not get that memo.)
Weather rules in Iceland. Rain is the queen and wind is king. Today has been a tad on the brutal side weather wise but we finally got in travel mode and saw some great things. We had a very nice breakfast at the hotel (often times furnished by the host) and packed everything to head out. I’m still not back to normal but I feel well enough.
As we checked out of the hotel this morning in a driving rain, the chef gave us two still warm pastries as a farewell. Not only was it a lovely gesture, they were excellent! Warm, like a custard inside, with slices of apples…….. There are definitely worse ways to start the day.
Weather rules in Iceland. Rain is the queen and wind is king. Today has been a tad on the brutal side weather wise but we finally got in travel mode and saw some great things. We had a very nice breakfast at the hotel (often times furnished by the host) and packed everything to head out. I’m still not back to normal but I feel well enough.
As we checked out of the hotel this morning in a driving rain, the chef gave us two still warm pastries as a farewell. Not only was it a lovely gesture, they were excellent! Warm, like a custard inside, with slices of apples…….. There are definitely worse ways to start the day.
Black sand "hidden" beach, west of Vik
The forecast calls for rain all day………and that’s exactly what we got. We visited the bluffs over a black sand beach, watched the fog roll in, then roll back out. I can imagine that the view in clear weather is amazing, but we play the cards we are dealt. We wander in the rain taking our cameras out from under our coats for a few shots when it isn’t pouring.
We stopped at Hálsanefshellir Cave, a black beach cave world famous for sweeping tourists out to sea and to their immediate deaths. As I understand, it happens a couple of times a year. They even have a warning light system to let folks know the danger level and today was the highest….so we stayed away from the breakers. Rain started falling in sheets so we packed it in and headed to Vik for lunch.
We stopped at Hálsanefshellir Cave, a black beach cave world famous for sweeping tourists out to sea and to their immediate deaths. As I understand, it happens a couple of times a year. They even have a warning light system to let folks know the danger level and today was the highest….so we stayed away from the breakers. Rain started falling in sheets so we packed it in and headed to Vik for lunch.
The beach that eats tourists
Tourism in Iceland is on a different level from when we were here in 2012. Vik at lunch looked like Gatlinburg, TN in the middle of summer. Dozens of tour buses, hundreds maybe thousands of people. We found a place we were able to get into, had a quick lunch, bought fuel, and got out of town.
We expect the numbers of people to dwindle the further east we go. The southern coast is one of the most popular areas in Iceland. There are bus tours every day from Reykjavik and many of the people you see are only there for the day. The further east, the farther from Reykjavik and things will hopefully get more sane.
We expect the numbers of people to dwindle the further east we go. The southern coast is one of the most popular areas in Iceland. There are bus tours every day from Reykjavik and many of the people you see are only there for the day. The further east, the farther from Reykjavik and things will hopefully get more sane.
Our fishing lodge
We ended our day early, around 5 p.m. We wanted to get out of the weather, dry out, be warm, do laundry, and write a blog post. Our choice of accommodations could not have been better. We are staying the night in a fishing lodge on a river in rural iceland. It is GORGEOUS. It is comfortable and warm, while the wind howls at 35 mph outside.
The lodge has four guest rooms and a common area and kitchen. Three rooms have guests. One room is a German couple from Stuttgart. We’ve had interesting conversations all evening and they’re very nice people. It was truly enjoyable spending the evening with them.
The lodge has four guest rooms and a common area and kitchen. Three rooms have guests. One room is a German couple from Stuttgart. We’ve had interesting conversations all evening and they’re very nice people. It was truly enjoyable spending the evening with them.
View from our window
The second set of guests wandered in at around 10:00 p.m. They are two doctors who were roomates at medical school. One from Greece now living in NYC and one from Romania who still lives in Romania. They get together once a year for a vacation together. Really nice guys who shared a glass of Glenlivit 20 year old with Laurie. (I’m not a scotch drinker.) Laurie was quite happy with them!
The shared kitchen in the lodge
All weather jokes aside, this is a beautiful place and we are enjoying our trip. Tomorrow will go how it goes and we'll deal with what is given to us. We will actually be on a guided tour tomorrow afternoon…..IF the weather cooperates. And if not.....we will find other interesting things to do! See you on the next post.