Days 6 and 7-Christmas in San Sebastian!
Christmas eve in the sun
We spent Christmas Eve and Christmas day in Donostia/San Sebastian Spain. We were unsure what to expect with Christmas, if anything would be open or happening. San Sebastian was a good choice as we could go to the beach, walk the boardwalks, and explore without the need for anything to be open.
We decided on an apartment as it would give us a place to hang out, cook our own meals, etc. if nothing was open. We shopped for groceries and bought chicken, steak, fresh fruit, and heavenly fresh bread. If everything was closed, we were fine.
We decided on an apartment as it would give us a place to hang out, cook our own meals, etc. if nothing was open. We shopped for groceries and bought chicken, steak, fresh fruit, and heavenly fresh bread. If everything was closed, we were fine.
Everyone was out for Christmas Eve
In the UK, everything closes down for several days with no food stores, no mass transit, nothing going on at all. We were prepared if everything was closed. What we found in San Sebastian was that the town barely slowed down!
We went out on Christmas Eve deciding to start on the boardwalk along the beach. We were greeted by huge crowds of locals doing exactly the same thing. Musicians were busking up and down the boardwalk. A parade of bicycles, many cyclists in holiday costumes passed us. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and everyone was enjoying the beach.
We went out on Christmas Eve deciding to start on the boardwalk along the beach. We were greeted by huge crowds of locals doing exactly the same thing. Musicians were busking up and down the boardwalk. A parade of bicycles, many cyclists in holiday costumes passed us. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and everyone was enjoying the beach.
Foot volley matches on the beach
A soccer/volleyball league was staging matches on the beach. It was an unusual game where ball handling rules were the same as soccer (no hands, kicking, heading) but it was played over a net like volleyball. Surfers were everywhere taking advantage of killer sets of waves. Paddle boarders joined the surfers. It was one huge party!
We stopped and photographed very skilled surfers, just shredding everything that breaks. We watched the waves crash into the rocks, taking in the day with the locals. We very seldom if ever heard someone speaking english. It’s the off season here and tourists like us are rare.
We stopped and photographed very skilled surfers, just shredding everything that breaks. We watched the waves crash into the rocks, taking in the day with the locals. We very seldom if ever heard someone speaking english. It’s the off season here and tourists like us are rare.
Looking down on San Sebastian
The locals speak a mix of Spanish and Basque, a regional language. There are similarities, and then there are major differences. Google translate would be set to “detect language” as the menu may be in Spanish or it may be in Basque. They are different enough to be totally different translations but close enough to confuse us as to which we were reading or hearing.
We took a funicular (inclined train) up the mountain to a hotel where we sat on a balcony having drinks and overlooking the beautiful city below. It was so pleasant, calm, and beautiful that we lingered. It was so nice.
We took a funicular (inclined train) up the mountain to a hotel where we sat on a balcony having drinks and overlooking the beautiful city below. It was so pleasant, calm, and beautiful that we lingered. It was so nice.
Bicycle Christmas parade!
I cannot say how much I enjoyed being with Laurie and sharing this day with her. It is another one of those days that was very simple, unexciting, but I was so content. I will remember this day forever.
We ride the funicular back down the mountain and walk further down the beach to the end. Several famous sculptures are at the point, installed into rocks on the ocean. The sculptures are mild steel and the salt water causes them to take on an orange color which is technically rust. The sculptures are world famous and the symbol for the city.
We ride the funicular back down the mountain and walk further down the beach to the end. Several famous sculptures are at the point, installed into rocks on the ocean. The sculptures are mild steel and the salt water causes them to take on an orange color which is technically rust. The sculptures are world famous and the symbol for the city.
Sculptures at the sea
Next to the sculptures are holes in the stone walk. When waves crash into the shore below, water shoots up through the holes at high pressure. It’s sort of like a cold water geyser, and people sort of play chicken with the water shooting up. When the waves hit they make a loud whistling noise and then the water flies.
We head back to the apartment and find the street in front five deep at the curb. It turns out the biggest Christmas parade in the city goes right by our apartment! We work our way through the crowds and finally get to our apartment. People are everywhere!
We head back to the apartment and find the street in front five deep at the curb. It turns out the biggest Christmas parade in the city goes right by our apartment! We work our way through the crowds and finally get to our apartment. People are everywhere!
Christmas parade marchers
We go out on the balconies and soon the parade begins. The first people through were in Basque costumes and had large bells attached to their backs. The bells rang in unison when they hopped along. There were groups performing traditional dances, kids singing and dancing, and people in traditional Basque costumes.
Ogres and dragons paraded through the street playfully poking and jumping around with the children. The parade ended with a float carrying what we think is a Basque Santa equivalent throwing candy to the crowd. As this float went through the crowd closed in behind it and followed.
Ogres and dragons paraded through the street playfully poking and jumping around with the children. The parade ended with a float carrying what we think is a Basque Santa equivalent throwing candy to the crowd. As this float went through the crowd closed in behind it and followed.
Basque Santa????
We didn’t see that one coming. We didn't even know there was a parade!
Christmas morning we did laundry, which doesn’t sound fun. But it was in San Sebastian! We walked to the laundromat, put the clothes in the washer, and walked on the beach while the machine ran. I set a timer and we returned to move the laundry to the dryer.
Christmas morning we did laundry, which doesn’t sound fun. But it was in San Sebastian! We walked to the laundromat, put the clothes in the washer, and walked on the beach while the machine ran. I set a timer and we returned to move the laundry to the dryer.
Panorama of the city
While the clothes were in the dryer, we went down the block to a cafe and had Tiramisu and coffee. We returned to the laundry, folded our clean clothes and returned to the apartment. I wish every laundry day was as nice as this one.
After this, we walk along the ocean. We take photos, look at sculptures, and watch the people. Then my wife tries to kill me and cash in my life insurance.
After this, we walk along the ocean. We take photos, look at sculptures, and watch the people. Then my wife tries to kill me and cash in my life insurance.
Christmas parade video
Laurie wanted to see the old castle which was basically straight up a cliff on a muddy trail. A local woman behind us decided to tackle the trail in white jeans and slick soled dress shoes. She will be shopping for both when the stores reopen. We both had hiking boots and did not suffer the same fate.
We climb upwards on a never ending stair master that I am unable to leave. I’m quite sure my wife is trying to kill me…although she says she’s trying to make me exercise and get healthy. I’m pretty sure Laurie getting me healthy is going to kill me. Her Fitbit said we walked 21000 steps, or 9 miles. Uphill both ways.
We climb upwards on a never ending stair master that I am unable to leave. I’m quite sure my wife is trying to kill me…although she says she’s trying to make me exercise and get healthy. I’m pretty sure Laurie getting me healthy is going to kill me. Her Fitbit said we walked 21000 steps, or 9 miles. Uphill both ways.
San Sebastian Beachfront
We come down, have a drink and pinchos at a bar and head back to the apartment to cook the steaks we bought for Christmas dinner. My wife’s attempt to kill me has failed. We eat, pack, and get ready for a move to Bilbao on the 26th.
We arrived in Bilbao late morning today, and I’ll tell that story tomorrow. Now a word from Laurie!!!
We arrived in Bilbao late morning today, and I’ll tell that story tomorrow. Now a word from Laurie!!!
Musicians on the beach
San Sebastian is a charming and picturesque city that is now one of my favorite places we have been to. The beaches and riverfront are both gorgeous and we lucked out with beautiful blue skies.
Traveling this time of year we haven’t encountered the huge crowds of tourists that I am sure flood this place in the summer. In fact, I have heard almost no English on the streets and it appears the city is being enjoyed by the residents or maybe travelers from other parts of Spain.
Traveling this time of year we haven’t encountered the huge crowds of tourists that I am sure flood this place in the summer. In fact, I have heard almost no English on the streets and it appears the city is being enjoyed by the residents or maybe travelers from other parts of Spain.
Waiting on her set
It was delightful to watch people bring their dogs to the beach and see them run free to play with other dogs and their owners. It also reminded me of how the beachfront in Tel Aviv is a place that is well used by the residents for family gatherings. It may be different in summer when there are people sunbathing, etc on the beach. It certainly is in NC where dogs are not allowed on the beach at all in some places during the summer.
Of note - I didn’t see a single cat.
Of note - I didn’t see a single cat.
REAL washers and dryers!
Also of note - do not ever buy a washer/dryer combo machine. They suck and I thought we were going to lose our laundry because we couldn’t figure out how to get it to unlock.
It would have taken 3 hours to wash all our clothes, and the dryer would have taken at least 3 hours, probably more. After rearranging my grumpy attitude to consider a trip to the laundromat an adventure, it turned out to be the easiest and most pleasant laundry experience we’ve ever had. And it all took about an hour.
It would have taken 3 hours to wash all our clothes, and the dryer would have taken at least 3 hours, probably more. After rearranging my grumpy attitude to consider a trip to the laundromat an adventure, it turned out to be the easiest and most pleasant laundry experience we’ve ever had. And it all took about an hour.
San Sebastian beachfront
Surfing is a big deal there and we watched them for a while. Some were on surf boards and some on boogie boards. It is not a surf to mess around with as the waves were huge. And it was cold - water temp probably about 50 degrees F and the air temp about the same. No thanks - but it was fun to watch.
Wandering the waterfront
Unlike many other places we have been, English is not spoken everywhere. Most of the servers and people in the stores do not speak English so I have been hauling out my rusty Spanish. I must admit it is easier for me to function here in Spanish than in Bordeaux with my VERY limited French. Basque is the native language but everyone seems to also speak Spanish.
The day before we took the funicular up to Mount Igueldo. The views from there were quite impressive. There is an amusement park there but it wasn’t in operation.
The day before we took the funicular up to Mount Igueldo. The views from there were quite impressive. There is an amusement park there but it wasn’t in operation.
Putting the "fun" in funicular!
We spent some time in the old part of the city. It is typical in the architecture and ubiquitous cathedrals and churches. It also seemed to be the center of separatist and socialist movements which may be one in the same. The walls of many buildings were covered in posters to free political prisoners, for Basque to secede from Spain and general anti-capitalism sentiment.
This was the only place we saw evidence of that activity. The Basque region has a long history of conflict with Spain with a very bloody civil war ending in 1939. Apparently they are still fighting that fight and reminded me of the movement in Quebec to secede from Canada when I was living there.
This was the only place we saw evidence of that activity. The Basque region has a long history of conflict with Spain with a very bloody civil war ending in 1939. Apparently they are still fighting that fight and reminded me of the movement in Quebec to secede from Canada when I was living there.
Laurie loves art so much she hugged it!
From the old town we climbed a very long and steep walk, up some muddy stairs and embankments, and reached the top of Mount Urgull where we found the promised views largely obscured by trees. They do have a pesky habit of growing taller and blocking vistas. It was a fortress built in the 12th century to protect the city from invaders from the sea. All I could think of was the poor peasants who probably had to tramp up and down those hills to service the fortress.
Laurie loves these trees! They're everywhere.
was impressed with how clean San Sebastian was. They clean the streets every day, even on Xmas. It is also the only city I have been to in Europe where I could find a bathroom when I needed one AND I didn’t have to pay. The little cafes didn’t care if I used their facilities.
Public toilets were even clean and had toilet paper. This may not be a big deal to a lot of you, but I found it delightful. And the buildings, even the old ones, seemed well maintained. Bordeaux had a seedy feel, more run down and definitely not what I would call clean.
Public toilets were even clean and had toilet paper. This may not be a big deal to a lot of you, but I found it delightful. And the buildings, even the old ones, seemed well maintained. Bordeaux had a seedy feel, more run down and definitely not what I would call clean.
Iberian hams run about $500 each
Christmas did not slow the city down at all. We have been to other places that basically shut down from the 24th through the 26th. Not in this part of Spain. Surprising for a country being 95% Catholic. In Bordeaux the creches had all the characters except the baby Jesus. In San Sebastian the baby was included before Xmas. I had never seen a creche without the baby.
Now we are in Bilbao and more adventures await.
Now we are in Bilbao and more adventures await.