Three days in Bilbao
A view down the river
We originally planned on taking the narrow gauge train from San Sebastian to Bilbao, but made one of those “field calls” where conditions on the ground caused us to rethink. The train would take around 3 hours or so and we would have to change trains three times. We think we would also have to buy multiple tickets. So we took the bus.
Rooftops of the city from our balcony
The national bus line in Spain is “Alsa” and it’s much nicer than “riding the dog” (Greyhound) in the states. Everybody here takes the bus. It runs often and to many places. It left from a huge underground bus station maybe a quarter mile from our apartment in San Sebastian.
We took a non-stop bus that cost 8 euros (less than half the train) and took an hour and ten minutes. It had wifi, TV’s in the seat backs, was clean, and on time…..something else “the dog” isn’t known for. We’ll be taking the bus again from A Coruna to Porto so we know what to expect now.
We took a non-stop bus that cost 8 euros (less than half the train) and took an hour and ten minutes. It had wifi, TV’s in the seat backs, was clean, and on time…..something else “the dog” isn’t known for. We’ll be taking the bus again from A Coruna to Porto so we know what to expect now.
The park across from our hotel
We arrived at a huge “Intermodal Transport” complex in Bilbao, where trams, buses, city buses, and the subway all meet. We took the subway four stops to where we get off, a station called “Abando”. This was around 300 yards from our hotel.
We stopped at the “TI”, or tourist information bureau. We went in and they gave us a ticket to wait for the next available person, which was less than two minutes. We got free maps and some good advice from the young lady at the TI. Then we headed for the hotel.
We stopped at the “TI”, or tourist information bureau. We went in and they gave us a ticket to wait for the next available person, which was less than two minutes. We got free maps and some good advice from the young lady at the TI. Then we headed for the hotel.
The city at night from the fancy bridge
I booked our hotel as I thought it would be centrally located and easy to reach everything. I didn’t find out until we reached the hotel that it would have been impossible to be any more centrally located!!! We were literally at the busiest intersection in the entire city.
Across from our hotel was a huge park full of playgrounds, the Christmas Market, and what seemed like every person in Bilbao. It was right on the river and the Spaniards are big on going out and walking….along the river, through the park…..strolling about is part of their culture. We liked it too.
Across from our hotel was a huge park full of playgrounds, the Christmas Market, and what seemed like every person in Bilbao. It was right on the river and the Spaniards are big on going out and walking….along the river, through the park…..strolling about is part of their culture. We liked it too.
Cafe culture is everywhere
Our hotel is very nice. I thought I had a video but seem to have lost it. I’ll try to find it later. That aside, we have a very nice room with a large balcony right in the middle of the tourist area. We’re very pleased and it turned out to be incredibly easy.
Our first day we walk the river all the way to the Guggenheim Museum on one side and back on the other. We explore booths in the Christmas Market, and eat wonderful food. We found a diner style restaurant we ate in a couple of times that we liked a great deal. I can find a diner anywhere.
Our first day we walk the river all the way to the Guggenheim Museum on one side and back on the other. We explore booths in the Christmas Market, and eat wonderful food. We found a diner style restaurant we ate in a couple of times that we liked a great deal. I can find a diner anywhere.
Even Spain has diners!
The people (thousands) in the park are socializing with friends, their kids are playing card games or on playground equipment, or wandering like us. It seems that all of Bilbao is out and that’s probably right. It is elbow to elbow crossing the bridge.
We stayed up late just like the locals and didn’t get up on day two until around 10 a.m. I bought tickets to the museum on my phone and we went back to our diner for breakfast. We are on the edge of the old town, in the Casco Viejo neighborhood. It is an incredibly active and bustling place no matter what time you’re there.
We stayed up late just like the locals and didn’t get up on day two until around 10 a.m. I bought tickets to the museum on my phone and we went back to our diner for breakfast. We are on the edge of the old town, in the Casco Viejo neighborhood. It is an incredibly active and bustling place no matter what time you’re there.
The Guggenheim
We walk down the river to check out the Guggenheim and Laurie actually got me to visit an art museum and has photographic proof that I actually did! I’ll have to mention that the building itself is as much of an attraction as the art.
The museum is impressive, and Laurie found the art collection equally impressive. It even had original art from people that an uncultured ruffian like me had heard of! She really enjoyed the Picasso exhibit as well as the sculpture exhibit of large metal shapes. It was a cool visit and we both enjoyed it.
The museum is impressive, and Laurie found the art collection equally impressive. It even had original art from people that an uncultured ruffian like me had heard of! She really enjoyed the Picasso exhibit as well as the sculpture exhibit of large metal shapes. It was a cool visit and we both enjoyed it.
Sculptures in the museum
We wander the town more, having drinks and pinchos at random bars, joining the sidewalk cafe life that is just everywhere. Everyone relaxes, has coffee or a drink, and just takes it easy. Note that I have not seen a single take out cup of coffee in this country. Coffee is meant to be savored and it is expected that you sit down and enjoy your coffee…..which we did. Then we’re off to bed.
We arose this morning, my birthday, grabbed pinchos for breakfast…..I mean lunch. We didn’t get out until noon. Then we went to the market, La Ribera, and walked through to see where the locals shop. We were fascinated with stalls that only sold one thing, like eggs, or mushrooms, or olives.
We arose this morning, my birthday, grabbed pinchos for breakfast…..I mean lunch. We didn’t get out until noon. Then we went to the market, La Ribera, and walked through to see where the locals shop. We were fascinated with stalls that only sold one thing, like eggs, or mushrooms, or olives.
Scary looking fish!
It was so cool watching the merchants cut meat or clean fish right in front of you. Everything is so fresh and as we can attest from our meals…..excellent quality. The food here is wonderful.
We wander the town a bit more, check out where we’ll pick up our rental car (train station), and spend the rest of the day in the old town. I was so busy before we left that I wasn’t able to get a haircut and I looked like hell. On a whim I wandered into a barbershop and got a trim from one of the local barbers.
We wander the town a bit more, check out where we’ll pick up our rental car (train station), and spend the rest of the day in the old town. I was so busy before we left that I wasn’t able to get a haircut and I looked like hell. On a whim I wandered into a barbershop and got a trim from one of the local barbers.
Visiting the barber in Spain
He spoke a little English and I speak a tiny bit of Spanish. Add google translate and we got along just fine. He was a traditional and very qualified barber. While it’s a bit shorter than I normally get it cut in the states, he did a great job for the bargain price of 16 euros. I also look less scruffy.
We had a wonderful dinner in a Chinese restaurant called “Dumpling +”. Every single item was made in the kitchen, including the noodles. It was probably the best Asian food I’ve ever had. It was fantastic! We wandered a bit more then headed back to the hotel to pack for our move tomorrow
We had a wonderful dinner in a Chinese restaurant called “Dumpling +”. Every single item was made in the kitchen, including the noodles. It was probably the best Asian food I’ve ever had. It was fantastic! We wandered a bit more then headed back to the hotel to pack for our move tomorrow
Spanish national lottery line
By the way, as a lark I bought a 5 euro Spanish scratch off lottery ticket. They’re nuts about the lottery here and everyone plays. There are even lines around the block to buy tickets for the big lotto style drawings. They’re lotto serious here!
Turns out I bought my ticket from a booth called “Once”, which I think may be pronounced “On-say”. They are a charity that started out helping the blind but now helps people with many types of disabilities. The attendants in the booths are often blind or have other issues. Once is also an employer as well.
Turns out I bought my ticket from a booth called “Once”, which I think may be pronounced “On-say”. They are a charity that started out helping the blind but now helps people with many types of disabilities. The attendants in the booths are often blind or have other issues. Once is also an employer as well.
My winner!
I scratched my ticket off in the hotel room and found out I won 25 euros! I figured it was for charity so I rolled it over and bought a bunch more. Turns out I won 10 euros! I’ll cash it in and get another ticket tomorrow.
Laurie wrote a bit as well, and it will follow. I’m off to bed. More from on down the road.
Laurie wrote a bit as well, and it will follow. I’m off to bed. More from on down the road.
Pinchos in the diner!
Bilbao is a big city, much bigger than I thought it would be. It definitely feels like a big city compared to San Sebastian with many more people, traffic and the hustle bustle of urban life. But it seems like a pretty compact city with most of the activity in the area we were staying in.
We made our first stop at the tourist information center when we got here. A very nice and helpful young woman told us not to buy the transit cards for 20 Euros because everything we wanted to see was within walking distance. She was right - and we never got on any public transportation while we were here.
We made our first stop at the tourist information center when we got here. A very nice and helpful young woman told us not to buy the transit cards for 20 Euros because everything we wanted to see was within walking distance. She was right - and we never got on any public transportation while we were here.
Just a normal neighborhood
We wandered mostly in the old city and along the river between it and the Guggenheim museum. We did end up walking through the newer part of the city and up into some of the residential neighborhoods. Such a different lifestyle here than cities in the USA.
Everywhere we went there were people out and about hanging in cafes, pintxos bars, restaurants outside no matter what time we were out. Courtyards in the residential areas were full of kids playing and there are public playgrounds all over full of kids. So much more fun than our cities that compartmentalize everything.
Everywhere we went there were people out and about hanging in cafes, pintxos bars, restaurants outside no matter what time we were out. Courtyards in the residential areas were full of kids playing and there are public playgrounds all over full of kids. So much more fun than our cities that compartmentalize everything.
Lit for the holidays!
People seem to love to be together and there are so many places to gather. At night the old city was so crowded it was difficult to just walk through. Maybe it’s quieter when it’s not the holiday season but I kind of doubt it.
Not everyone is apparently happy with the current state of affairs here. Like San Sebastian there was evidence of Basque separatist sentiment in posters and calls for demonstrations. There was a poster we saw frequently about violence against women.
Not everyone is apparently happy with the current state of affairs here. Like San Sebastian there was evidence of Basque separatist sentiment in posters and calls for demonstrations. There was a poster we saw frequently about violence against women.
Entry to the public library!
There were some bars that had rainbow flags and signs proclaiming them to be safe spaces, implying that other spaces might not be. We wanted to go up a funicular to the top of the mountain but it was closed because the workers were on strike. So it’s not all drinking and partying I guess.
I wasn’t able to find information about a Jewish community here. There are no historic sites like there are in every other place in Europe we have been. Other places in Spain do have them but not Bilbao.
I wasn’t able to find information about a Jewish community here. There are no historic sites like there are in every other place in Europe we have been. Other places in Spain do have them but not Bilbao.
Pinchos!
The country is 95% catholic and 5% Muslim. I found that interesting and we walked through one neighborhood that had signs in Arabic and people had the Palestinian flag hanging on their balconies and outside a bar.
Dogs are the animals of choice here and everyone brings their dogs out while they sit and drink or walk around. The canines were all very well behaved and people were conscientious about picking up after them. Again, not a single cat anywhere. In general the city is very clean for the most part.
Dogs are the animals of choice here and everyone brings their dogs out while they sit and drink or walk around. The canines were all very well behaved and people were conscientious about picking up after them. Again, not a single cat anywhere. In general the city is very clean for the most part.
Picasso sculpture
The Guggenheim is an amazing architectural masterpiece. It is a different layout than most museums with the galleries being spaces set off the main thoroughfares so they didn’t connect. The exhibitions were all large pieces or only a few select items so it was not overwhelming and we saw all of it in about 1 ½ hours. All the information was in English, Spanish and Basque.
There was a good exhibit of a range of Picasso’s work. Another was a retrospective of Gego - Gertrude Goldschmidt. She was a German Jew who fled to Venezuela to escape Hitler and ended up becoming a citizen there.
There was a good exhibit of a range of Picasso’s work. Another was a retrospective of Gego - Gertrude Goldschmidt. She was a German Jew who fled to Venezuela to escape Hitler and ended up becoming a citizen there.
The famous spider
Her work is all abstract lines and forms. It was very interesting. And the exhibition of works from their permanent collection was also interesting. It was so nice to be in a real museum. And the building itself is its own exhibition inside and out. I also stopped in a modern art gallery/museum that had some interesting work.
Guggenheim at night
We had a nice and relaxed time here because there was a bit less to see and do than we thought. 2 full days was plenty and we were able to enjoy some downtime and not feel rushed to be out and about to see everything.
Next stop - the northern coast of Spain by car.
Next stop - the northern coast of Spain by car.