Back to Zombieland-Final thoughts
Hermit Lake, Colorado. Elevation 11,400 feet!
We’ve been back nearly a week so I’m wrapping this blog up the way I always do…...random thoughts in no specific order. Laurie also wrote a wrap up on her thoughts which is below mine. Here we go!
Low/no contact travel- We planned a trip for Laurie’s birthday, but this came unglued thanks to COVID-19. We wanted to travel, but the stakes are much higher now, and there’s no way we were getting on a plane. We decided to drive and keep contact with others as low as possible. We planned on going to an area with practically no cases (two since this whole thing started), and stay away from everyone as best we could.
We chose the desert of northeast New Mexico for a few days and the Colorado mountains for the balance of the trip. And let me tell you, if you want isolation from others, it’s difficult to find someplace with less human contact that the part of New Mexico we went to! Colorado had more people but it was still very sparsely populated and most of the locals (and a few of the tourists) were socially distant and wore masks.
Low/no contact travel- We planned a trip for Laurie’s birthday, but this came unglued thanks to COVID-19. We wanted to travel, but the stakes are much higher now, and there’s no way we were getting on a plane. We decided to drive and keep contact with others as low as possible. We planned on going to an area with practically no cases (two since this whole thing started), and stay away from everyone as best we could.
We chose the desert of northeast New Mexico for a few days and the Colorado mountains for the balance of the trip. And let me tell you, if you want isolation from others, it’s difficult to find someplace with less human contact that the part of New Mexico we went to! Colorado had more people but it was still very sparsely populated and most of the locals (and a few of the tourists) were socially distant and wore masks.
Masked up for a hike on the Capulin, New Mexico Volcano. New Mexico required public mask usage and we were sure to wear them on the trail while hiking as we would sometimes pass other hikers.
Masks- During our travels, we found high usage of masks and social distancing in many of the places. We found high mask usage in areas that had very low infection numbers. We also found low or no mask usage in areas that had very high (like Illinois) infection rates. We were told when we arrived in Colorado that they had two cases since this all started and they expected it to stay that way. Mask usage there was relatively high and it was expected of visitors, but not all complied.
To recap, we found that high mask usage=low rates of infection, and low mask usage=high rates of infection. This is not something for argument, but an observation. This was what we saw. We also felt much more comfortable in areas with low infection rates and high mask usage.
We stopped once in Illinois for fuel. We were the ONLY ones (out of maybe 60 people at the truck stop) wearing masks, so we fueled and left without going in the store. In Colorado, New Mexico, and Oklahoma, people welcomed visitors who were careful and were not happy with those who were not. Many businesses would have signs on the door requiring masks for entry.
It was not expected that everyone wear a mask all the time. It was expected when you went in a store or were around other people. In New Mexico, it was the law that you had to wear a mask when “out in public”. We were hiking in New Mexico and actually ran across other hikers wearing masks. Compliance was not universal in either place, but it was very high in both places.
To recap, we found that high mask usage=low rates of infection, and low mask usage=high rates of infection. This is not something for argument, but an observation. This was what we saw. We also felt much more comfortable in areas with low infection rates and high mask usage.
We stopped once in Illinois for fuel. We were the ONLY ones (out of maybe 60 people at the truck stop) wearing masks, so we fueled and left without going in the store. In Colorado, New Mexico, and Oklahoma, people welcomed visitors who were careful and were not happy with those who were not. Many businesses would have signs on the door requiring masks for entry.
It was not expected that everyone wear a mask all the time. It was expected when you went in a store or were around other people. In New Mexico, it was the law that you had to wear a mask when “out in public”. We were hiking in New Mexico and actually ran across other hikers wearing masks. Compliance was not universal in either place, but it was very high in both places.
Mustang Run RV Park, near Oklahoma City
RV travel- We’re not new to RV’s. This is actually our 5th one, but this is considerably smaller than our 33 foot motorhome. When this whole COVID-19 thing started, I quickly realized if we were going to travel anywhere, controlling our environment was paramount. We could think of no better way to control where we slept, bathed, and ate than to get another RV.
We bought a used 17 foot 2017 travel trailer before everyone else got the idea, and before the prices went up. As others got the same idea, camper sales rose dramatically. I saw the trend coming and invested in a few shares of a camping related stock as well….which to date has went up quite a bit. I have heard it said that 2020 is the year of the “COVID camper”, with many people unfamiliar with RV’s buying their first.
This also led to campgrounds with occupancy rates not previously heard of. We spoke to a camp host at one campground and he said that the number of full sites has doubled since the same time last year. If you were staying in a campground, you had to plan ahead to make sure a spot was available.
We bought a used 17 foot 2017 travel trailer before everyone else got the idea, and before the prices went up. As others got the same idea, camper sales rose dramatically. I saw the trend coming and invested in a few shares of a camping related stock as well….which to date has went up quite a bit. I have heard it said that 2020 is the year of the “COVID camper”, with many people unfamiliar with RV’s buying their first.
This also led to campgrounds with occupancy rates not previously heard of. We spoke to a camp host at one campground and he said that the number of full sites has doubled since the same time last year. If you were staying in a campground, you had to plan ahead to make sure a spot was available.
Out in the boondocks, near Hermit Lake, Colorado
“Boondock” camping- We planned to spend very little time in an established RV park, wanting as much space between us and other people as possible. By camping in the national forest or BLM land for at least part of the trip, we could cut our exposure to other people quite a bit. I had put a lot of planning into this as well as brought a lot of boondock camping gear with us including generators. We didn’t end up using any of it.
Dead refrigerator- This is why we didn’t go off grid. I finished work at noon and on our first night we made it all the way to Oklahoma. We pulled into a campground after closing so we could have power to run the AC and sleep in comfort. We woke up to find our fridge had quit working.
We had to figure out a way to salvage the trip, so we put on our masks and such and went to Walmart to purchase one of the new style coolers (and most expensive I’ve ever owned) and ice. We emptied the fridge of roughly ten days of food and transferred it to the cooler in Oklahoma. While this temporarily solved the food storage issue, it caused another problem that changed our plans. This issue was:
BEARS!- The off grid/boondock area we planned on staying was known for bears. You have to take special precautions to store your food, or you won’t have it long. I’ve also personally watched a bear open a cooler like a kid opens a candy bar. It was a big cooler and we had no room for it in the camper, and leaving it outside in bear country wasn’t an option. So we decided to stay in established RV parks.
Dead refrigerator- This is why we didn’t go off grid. I finished work at noon and on our first night we made it all the way to Oklahoma. We pulled into a campground after closing so we could have power to run the AC and sleep in comfort. We woke up to find our fridge had quit working.
We had to figure out a way to salvage the trip, so we put on our masks and such and went to Walmart to purchase one of the new style coolers (and most expensive I’ve ever owned) and ice. We emptied the fridge of roughly ten days of food and transferred it to the cooler in Oklahoma. While this temporarily solved the food storage issue, it caused another problem that changed our plans. This issue was:
BEARS!- The off grid/boondock area we planned on staying was known for bears. You have to take special precautions to store your food, or you won’t have it long. I’ve also personally watched a bear open a cooler like a kid opens a candy bar. It was a big cooler and we had no room for it in the camper, and leaving it outside in bear country wasn’t an option. So we decided to stay in established RV parks.
Grape Creek RV Park, Westcliffe, Colorado
RV parks- While we stayed in RV parks, everyone kept their distance. There was ample space between the sites and while people may chat from a distance, everyone stayed away from everyone else. While bath houses were open, most people seemed to use the facilities in their own RV instead of the communal ones. Mask use was much less in the RV parks, but people seldom if ever came closer than 10 or 15 feet from those not in their party.
Eating out- We had takeout several times and we actually ate at a restaurant or two. Tables outside and far from others made us feel comfortable with that situation. We didn’t expect this to be part of our journey but it was set up and maintained in a manner that we felt comfortable doing it. By the way, don’t order fish and chips in Colorado. Ask Laurie if you don’t believe me.
There were places along the way that we wouldn’t even consider going in, even to get takeout. There were too many people, It was too crowded, nobody wore a mask or distanced, and it was a bad calculated risk. We kept on moving and didn’t go in these places. It was all about assessing risk and making a calculated decision.
Eating out- We had takeout several times and we actually ate at a restaurant or two. Tables outside and far from others made us feel comfortable with that situation. We didn’t expect this to be part of our journey but it was set up and maintained in a manner that we felt comfortable doing it. By the way, don’t order fish and chips in Colorado. Ask Laurie if you don’t believe me.
There were places along the way that we wouldn’t even consider going in, even to get takeout. There were too many people, It was too crowded, nobody wore a mask or distanced, and it was a bad calculated risk. We kept on moving and didn’t go in these places. It was all about assessing risk and making a calculated decision.
I had a new fish eye lens and didn't realize the full depth of field. I got both Laurie and my truck in this photo. While not intentional, I think it's pretty cool! No light except from Laurie's camera display and the stars.
Star photos- We planned on taking star photos while out west, but this didn’t work out as planned. We had one fairly decent night in New Mexico, but the rest of the nights in both places were plagued with clouds. I did a few so so shots in Colorado, but star photos didn’t really work out as planned.
Outside of Westcliffe, Colorado
Landscape photos- While we didn’t get many star photos, we got a TON of great photos. We shot sunsets, the mountains, lakes, rivers, and the desert. The American west is gorgeous and very deserving of a visit. Vistas so breathtaking that you just stand and take it all in. Like being on the ocean, the west will show you how small you actually are.
Shelf Road, near Cripple Creek, Colorado
Off road driving- There are lots of cool things to see out in the desert, but not a lot of paved roads. In order to get to them, you have to get off the paved roads and onto gravel roads, and jeep paths. The roads can get VERY rough and not passable, unless you’re in a 4 wheel drive vehicle with substantial ground clearance.
My truck is a 2016 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. We have room in the cab for extra stuff like camera gear, snacks, rain gear, and whatever else we deem necessary. You have to keep stuff in the cab not necessarily because of rain (which does happen), but because of dust. Dusty back roads coat everything with a thin layer of grit and dust that can only be gotten rid of at a car wash, and yes we used one. Twice.
Mountain “roads” go to surprising elevations, with our highest trek being around 11,000 feet. The higher you go, the more amazing the views. You will also not be alone as off road driving out west is a popular pastime. You get to have adventures in places that most visitors will never see, and brag to those that never leave the paved road.
My truck is a 2016 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. We have room in the cab for extra stuff like camera gear, snacks, rain gear, and whatever else we deem necessary. You have to keep stuff in the cab not necessarily because of rain (which does happen), but because of dust. Dusty back roads coat everything with a thin layer of grit and dust that can only be gotten rid of at a car wash, and yes we used one. Twice.
Mountain “roads” go to surprising elevations, with our highest trek being around 11,000 feet. The higher you go, the more amazing the views. You will also not be alone as off road driving out west is a popular pastime. You get to have adventures in places that most visitors will never see, and brag to those that never leave the paved road.
Royal Gorge Bridge, Canon City, Colorado
Low/no contact activities- The places we went are tailor made for low/no contact adventures! We went hiking on a volcano, hiked to a lake on top of a mountain, walked across a bridge over a massive gorge, wandered around abandoned gold mines, did photography, and explored a historic cemetery. There are ghost towns and abandoned buildings, all matter of hiking trails, fishing, and off road adventures. There were so many things we could do and see without being in contact with others.
On top of Capulin Volcano. Elevation 8100 feet.
Altitude sickness- I’ve had trouble with altitude on a previous trip. I didn’t use medication this time as we were gradually going up in elevation. Altitude sickness/issues have no rhyme or reason, and can’t be predicted. The last two days we were supposed to move to a campground at 10,000 feet. The day before we were supposed to move, I started having issues that I knew were altitude related and I would need to deal with them.
It started with a mild headache and fatigue. I just didn’t feel well. The symptoms are caused by low oxygen levels in the blood due to less oxygen in the atmosphere at altitude. You never know when or IF it will hit you. I also made a tactical error and let myself get dehydrated, something easy to do when you’re not sweating and don’t think you need to drink. Rest and a caring wife constantly badgering me to “drink another bottle of water!” brought me back to semi-normal in a few hours.
I had bought a pulse oximeter for a ski trip that was derailed due to COVID and I brought it with me. I checked my sats and they were pretty low, around 90 percent. I normally have oxygen sats of 97-98 percent at home so this was a substantial drop. I started mapping blood oxygen sats at different elevations when I was better and think I can use the pulse/ox to keep me out of trouble in the future. Like a diabetic checks their sugar….I started checking my oxygen.
Luckily we were able to extend where we were at and stay at 8000 feet instead of 10000 feet. I called the state park we were going to and told them that I wasn’t feeling well and wanted to cancel. They said that due to COVID they had a very liberal cancellation policy and would refund the fees! I said that I thought it was altitude and not COVID, and they said “that’s fine…..if you’re not feeling well, we don’t want you to come. FULL REFUND!”
It started with a mild headache and fatigue. I just didn’t feel well. The symptoms are caused by low oxygen levels in the blood due to less oxygen in the atmosphere at altitude. You never know when or IF it will hit you. I also made a tactical error and let myself get dehydrated, something easy to do when you’re not sweating and don’t think you need to drink. Rest and a caring wife constantly badgering me to “drink another bottle of water!” brought me back to semi-normal in a few hours.
I had bought a pulse oximeter for a ski trip that was derailed due to COVID and I brought it with me. I checked my sats and they were pretty low, around 90 percent. I normally have oxygen sats of 97-98 percent at home so this was a substantial drop. I started mapping blood oxygen sats at different elevations when I was better and think I can use the pulse/ox to keep me out of trouble in the future. Like a diabetic checks their sugar….I started checking my oxygen.
Luckily we were able to extend where we were at and stay at 8000 feet instead of 10000 feet. I called the state park we were going to and told them that I wasn’t feeling well and wanted to cancel. They said that due to COVID they had a very liberal cancellation policy and would refund the fees! I said that I thought it was altitude and not COVID, and they said “that’s fine…..if you’re not feeling well, we don’t want you to come. FULL REFUND!”
Fueling at an unattended gas station, Eads, Colorado.
Long distance driving- I’ve never been bothered by driving long stretches. I worked until noon the day we left, came home, got in the truck, and drove 615 miles to Sallisaw, Oklahoma. In the old days I would have pushed on through the night and made it all the way to New Mexico, but I’m not 40 anymore and Laurie’s tolerance for all night travel is not what it used to be. We stopped there around 11 p.m.
The next day we drove 160 miles to Oklahoma city and spent the day in a RV park to deal with the camper issues. The day after I drove 415 miles to Capulin, New Mexico which was our first stop. Just short of 1200 miles total for this part of the trip. It’s a long way, but as I told a fellow race drive once…..I’m a driver. It’s what we do.
The trip from Capulin, New Mexico to Westcliffe, Colorado was easy, a mere 150 miles. From Westcliffe to home was right at 1300 miles, with an overnight stop somewhere in Missouri. Total miles driven, NOT including miles driven exploring and adventuring, over 2600 miles round trip. Piece of cake.
The next day we drove 160 miles to Oklahoma city and spent the day in a RV park to deal with the camper issues. The day after I drove 415 miles to Capulin, New Mexico which was our first stop. Just short of 1200 miles total for this part of the trip. It’s a long way, but as I told a fellow race drive once…..I’m a driver. It’s what we do.
The trip from Capulin, New Mexico to Westcliffe, Colorado was easy, a mere 150 miles. From Westcliffe to home was right at 1300 miles, with an overnight stop somewhere in Missouri. Total miles driven, NOT including miles driven exploring and adventuring, over 2600 miles round trip. Piece of cake.
Looking across the New Mexico desert, Capulin, New Mexico
Vast expanses- I was in a gas station in Glencoe, Scotland, chatting with the owner. He rode sports bikes and once shipped his bike to the U.S. to ride across the country. He said “Most Europeans don’t realize how VAST the states are.” Compared to Europe, the U.S. is massive. We drove the equivalent of Paris to Russia…..and back.
Having traveled extensively in Europe, I can think of no place there as vast as the American plains. Hundreds and hundreds of miles of flat and open desert or farmland. We drove through hours of nothing, hoping we wouldn’t have to use the spare fuel cans in the bed. We drove through wheat field after wheat field in Kansas that stretched forever. Our country has expanses people from other parts of the world can only imagine.
Having traveled extensively in Europe, I can think of no place there as vast as the American plains. Hundreds and hundreds of miles of flat and open desert or farmland. We drove through hours of nothing, hoping we wouldn’t have to use the spare fuel cans in the bed. We drove through wheat field after wheat field in Kansas that stretched forever. Our country has expanses people from other parts of the world can only imagine.
We are now restricted to domestic travel....and we're not even sure about that. This is the Folsom, NM post office and at present, we can't even go there without a 14 day quarantine when we enter New Mexico.
Further U.S. travel- While we would like to continue our world travels, with our current situation and skyrocketing rates of COVID-19 infection, I don’t think other countries want us. In all honesty, I can’t blame them. This pandemic hit many European countries very hard and they are struggling back towards normalcy. So many were ill, and so many died. Countries like Italy, with an elderly population, were very hard hit.
They have seen bad and don’t want to go back. They would rather forego tourist revenue than bring a resurgence of disease that will further cripple and damage their country and people. While some of our states have made effective efforts to stem COVID-19, others have not even tried and the data shows it. With no way to differentiate a U.S. traveler from a low infection state vs. a high infection state, they have said no to all U.S. travelers. So we’re restricted to travel in our country for now.
Travel abroad- There are so many things that would have to change for us to head back to Europe. We would love to, but the thought of getting on a plane with people you know nothing about is at this point is unimaginable. A vaccine would definitely get us flying again. The Israelis have a new one minute COVID test that would be revolutionary…..IF it passes trials and actually works. A lot will have to change before we would feel safe traveling abroad.
They have seen bad and don’t want to go back. They would rather forego tourist revenue than bring a resurgence of disease that will further cripple and damage their country and people. While some of our states have made effective efforts to stem COVID-19, others have not even tried and the data shows it. With no way to differentiate a U.S. traveler from a low infection state vs. a high infection state, they have said no to all U.S. travelers. So we’re restricted to travel in our country for now.
Travel abroad- There are so many things that would have to change for us to head back to Europe. We would love to, but the thought of getting on a plane with people you know nothing about is at this point is unimaginable. A vaccine would definitely get us flying again. The Israelis have a new one minute COVID test that would be revolutionary…..IF it passes trials and actually works. A lot will have to change before we would feel safe traveling abroad.
This sign is incredibly accurate. It reflected what we found our entire trip.
Where next?- In the week since we have returned from our trip out west, we have started to see states require visitors from other high infection states to quarantine upon arrival. Most in Colorado seemed quite serious about the pandemic, and their numbers are low and not rising. I'm seeing numbers from states back east that boggle the mind. Over 10k new cases a day in Florida. 8k a day in Texas. From the time we left to the time I’m writing this, Tennessee has over 18,200 new cases. We'll probably hit 20k tomorrow.......in a little over two weeks. Thus the title "Back to Zombieland".
When we were in Europe this past Christmas, I was sick for over two weeks and wound up in the hospital. This was twice in two years that I wound up seeking medical attention while in Europe. Consequently, we planned on U.S. travel at Christmas this year and driving out west. I joked that it would be like Zombieland....we'd drive and just avoid sick people. I was joking.....or so I thought. Things have taken such an odd turn.
When we were in Europe this past Christmas, I was sick for over two weeks and wound up in the hospital. This was twice in two years that I wound up seeking medical attention while in Europe. Consequently, we planned on U.S. travel at Christmas this year and driving out west. I joked that it would be like Zombieland....we'd drive and just avoid sick people. I was joking.....or so I thought. Things have taken such an odd turn.
Socially distant yoga during our socially distant trip
New Mexico announced. that they are requiring ALL visitors by car and/or air to quarantine for 14 days upon arrival. We squeaked in our New Mexico visit before this went into effect. When things were bad and New Yorkers were fleeing, I remember New York politicians threatening Rhode Island with lawsuits due to travel restrictions on New Yorkers. Now New York is doing the same thing that other states were trying to do to them. I can’t recall interstate travel ever being restricted. I think a lot of this is political posturing. It’s far from logical, and in the end, it will most probably be found far from legal. But everyone is nervous.
We have some ideas, but the current situation is so volatile, so fluid, that we can’t even venture a guess. We don’t know where we’ll be able to travel until closer to our next trip and we have a better idea what our options are. But if we can travel……..we will.
We have some ideas, but the current situation is so volatile, so fluid, that we can’t even venture a guess. We don’t know where we’ll be able to travel until closer to our next trip and we have a better idea what our options are. But if we can travel……..we will.
So long for this trip! I hope we're able to do another soon.....socially distant or not.
In closing- Thanks for following our travels! Be sure and check out the photo album at the bottom with lots more photos, as well as Laurie's thoughts below. We had a great time and it was wonderful to get a break and travel. We do live in an amazing country, and it is incredible to see. When you’re able, when it’s wise, and when you personally think it is worth the risk….give it a try. Make good decisions to keep yourself and others healthy, and see this world!
Another party heard: Laurie's thoughts on our socially distant trip
A vast landscape, near Westcliffe, Colorado
TN - Arkansas - Oklahoma – Texas - New Mexico – Colorado - Kansas - Missouri - Illinois Kentucky - TN. 20 hours from home. People who have never driven the USA have no concept of how big this country is. If we were in Europe we would have gone through half a dozen countries at least.
It is impossible to explain the vast expanses of grasslands of Oklahoma and Kansas unless you’ve seen it. There is no mystery why tornadoes rip through this flat land with nothing to stop them except man made structures. Hot, dry and windy. Actually everywhere we went was flat and dry except when we got into the mountains in Colorado.
It is impossible to explain the vast expanses of grasslands of Oklahoma and Kansas unless you’ve seen it. There is no mystery why tornadoes rip through this flat land with nothing to stop them except man made structures. Hot, dry and windy. Actually everywhere we went was flat and dry except when we got into the mountains in Colorado.
A Kansas windmill farm
It is a good idea to get gas whenever you can when driving through these areas. Some towns don’t even have a gas station. You can see a long way off and we would think we were coming into a town but it would just be a cluster of huge grain silos. Bill of course had extra gas with us but there were times when it was pretty close. The only things breaking up the landscape for miles were wind farms. These big windmills are quite majestic.
It was interesting to see how cattle farmers provided for their animals in these remote and large grazing areas. Solar power and windmills brought water up from wells. It’s all about water out there.
There are different breeds of cows that we have here. Big horn steers were common. There wasn’t always fencing to keep the cattle contained so they just kind of ambled across the roads and grazed wherever. There were cattle guards to keep them off some roads. Grass fed and free range at it’s finest.
It was interesting to see how cattle farmers provided for their animals in these remote and large grazing areas. Solar power and windmills brought water up from wells. It’s all about water out there.
There are different breeds of cows that we have here. Big horn steers were common. There wasn’t always fencing to keep the cattle contained so they just kind of ambled across the roads and grazed wherever. There were cattle guards to keep them off some roads. Grass fed and free range at it’s finest.
Camper setup in Capulin, New Mexico
It’s been a while since we’ve camped – and when we did last we were in a 33 foot motorhome with plenty of space and conveniences. Now we are in a 17 foot pull behind which is a bit more challenging to find room for things. It requires a lot of moving things from one place to another as we cook, eat and shower. But it is fine, just takes some getting used to. It is more minimalist than what we had, which is a good thing.
The biggest hassle is just finding places to put essentials and remembering to batten everything down for travel since it doesn’t ride as smoothly as the motor home. We were prepared for dry camping but it was much easier being in a campground with hookups.
In Capulin, New Mexico there was a little more on the landscape to break it up the desert. This was the first time ever when we programmed in our destination that a GPS asked “are you sure you want to go there?”. That’s remote.
The biggest hassle is just finding places to put essentials and remembering to batten everything down for travel since it doesn’t ride as smoothly as the motor home. We were prepared for dry camping but it was much easier being in a campground with hookups.
In Capulin, New Mexico there was a little more on the landscape to break it up the desert. This was the first time ever when we programmed in our destination that a GPS asked “are you sure you want to go there?”. That’s remote.
An abandoned ranch house, in the desert south of Capulin, New Mexico
We went to the Capulin Monument which is an extinct volcano. The lava fields that surround the cone are covered with sand now. It reminded me of some of the places I saw in Israel like Masada. Very harsh land, not much water and poor soil. The views from the rim were beautiful but again, I can’t imagine living there. Driving out there I wondered how anyone survived the ordeal of settling in this inhospitable place.
The early settlers were hardy people - those who survived. I can see why some of them went nuts with the endless horizon and wide open spaces. Not knowing if they were ever going to see the end of it and having no idea how the weather rips across those expanses. Very little greenery or trees, so different than where they came from.
Driving by so many reservations in Oklahoma and NM was a stark reminder of all that the Native Americans have lost. Some tribes seem to have reclaimed some of their heritage. I think the whole casino thing is a great way to get some of that wealth back from those who took it. Exiling the tribes that survived to what is essentially a wasteland is an evil that has never been rectified.
The early settlers were hardy people - those who survived. I can see why some of them went nuts with the endless horizon and wide open spaces. Not knowing if they were ever going to see the end of it and having no idea how the weather rips across those expanses. Very little greenery or trees, so different than where they came from.
Driving by so many reservations in Oklahoma and NM was a stark reminder of all that the Native Americans have lost. Some tribes seem to have reclaimed some of their heritage. I think the whole casino thing is a great way to get some of that wealth back from those who took it. Exiling the tribes that survived to what is essentially a wasteland is an evil that has never been rectified.
Bouncing off of big rocks (as Laurie mentions below), high above Westcliffe, Colorado
I have chronic problems with dry eye and Bill has trouble with his skin. The desert was not kind to us. But we managed with medications and we were able to press on. The camper has a very loud air conditioner and running it all night made it possible for me to sleep through Bill’s snoring.
The altitude when we got up into the mountains of Colorado became a problem for Bill. Word of advice - drink A LOT of water. He had some altitude sickness. He got better when he paid more attention and kept himself well hydrated. Because of the altitude we didn’t do a lot of hiking since Bill got short of breath easily. Where we were in Colorado is known for hiking so instead of doing that, he took the truck up roads that were better suited for foot travel.
Off road travel was fine with me except the 6 miles of rocky road that seemed more like a riverbed. It was a lot of bouncing up and down and my back was pretty sore by the end of the day. But the mountain lake at the end, Hermit Lake, was beautiful.
There were actually a few patches of snow up there. The forest was old growth pine. There were large swatches of dead trees, though, victims of some disease or pest. Some areas had the white aspens and they were lovely.
The altitude when we got up into the mountains of Colorado became a problem for Bill. Word of advice - drink A LOT of water. He had some altitude sickness. He got better when he paid more attention and kept himself well hydrated. Because of the altitude we didn’t do a lot of hiking since Bill got short of breath easily. Where we were in Colorado is known for hiking so instead of doing that, he took the truck up roads that were better suited for foot travel.
Off road travel was fine with me except the 6 miles of rocky road that seemed more like a riverbed. It was a lot of bouncing up and down and my back was pretty sore by the end of the day. But the mountain lake at the end, Hermit Lake, was beautiful.
There were actually a few patches of snow up there. The forest was old growth pine. There were large swatches of dead trees, though, victims of some disease or pest. Some areas had the white aspens and they were lovely.
Off the main road on one of the "better maintained" roads.
The rest of the roads were better maintained dirt roads. They were very narrow and passing people coming the other way could be interesting. But the canyons were also very beautiful and much like those we saw in Utah. The geological formations looked like totems. The colors were often muted and all in the grey, brown palate.
Green came from evergreens and the lichen that covers the ground instead of grass. We were lucky they had some rain so the cactus were blooming. It is interesting to see how plants have adapted to the conditions there. Life is tenacious.
Nearly all the ranches had very distinctive entrance gates. They could be quite elaborate. Many of the ranches were quite impressive and seemed well maintained. Cattle, horse ranching was clearly a major source of income there. We actually saw some Amish out there in Westcliffe. Their lifestyle seems well suited to that kind of living.
Green came from evergreens and the lichen that covers the ground instead of grass. We were lucky they had some rain so the cactus were blooming. It is interesting to see how plants have adapted to the conditions there. Life is tenacious.
Nearly all the ranches had very distinctive entrance gates. They could be quite elaborate. Many of the ranches were quite impressive and seemed well maintained. Cattle, horse ranching was clearly a major source of income there. We actually saw some Amish out there in Westcliffe. Their lifestyle seems well suited to that kind of living.
In the mostly abandoned town of Folsom, New Mexico
I really like exploring abandoned places. How nature reclaims the land, the energy of the place and the visual forms and textures created as structures change shape with age. The gold mines were interesting and told their own story. The ghost towns were a bust, but the Rosarita cemetery also told a story of a tenuous life. Infant and child deaths were common with some families losing multiple children, often yearly.
It seemed if you made it through childhood, you were good for a fairly long life. There were clusters of dates so something must have happened in certain years. Maybe an unusually harsh winter, poor crops or disease.
Towns come and go. Rosarita, established in 1872, was a silver mining town. By 1874 it had 1000 residents, schools, stores, etc and a post office. In 1878 it became the county seat but lost that in 1886 to Silver Cliff. Once the mines closed, all those little towns died. By 1966 the post office closed and Rosarita was officially gone.
It seemed if you made it through childhood, you were good for a fairly long life. There were clusters of dates so something must have happened in certain years. Maybe an unusually harsh winter, poor crops or disease.
Towns come and go. Rosarita, established in 1872, was a silver mining town. By 1874 it had 1000 residents, schools, stores, etc and a post office. In 1878 it became the county seat but lost that in 1886 to Silver Cliff. Once the mines closed, all those little towns died. By 1966 the post office closed and Rosarita was officially gone.
Downtown Westcliffe, Colorado
I don’t know why some towns managed to survive except they must have been more flexible and adapted. I wish the little museums had been open. I’m sure their history is interesting. Westcliffe was not exactly huge, and Silvercliffe immediately adjacent was even smaller. Both are now known as dark sky locations and tourism seems to be their main industry. It seems West Cliffe managed to survive because of the railroad and because it is in an area that has water.
The people there were very friendly and there were restaurants, coffee shops, galleries and tourist shops. The sunsets were amazing and the Sangre de Cristo mountains were beautiful. Definitely worth visiting. That whole area, though, seems to be hanging on by a thread and a prayer.
I’m sure they are glad that things have opened up again but there wasn’t a lot of mask wearing in Westcliffe. Very few cases may have made them complacent. I just hope tourists don’t bring Covid to them because medical care is not readily available. The nearest hospital was in Canon City, an hour away.
The people there were very friendly and there were restaurants, coffee shops, galleries and tourist shops. The sunsets were amazing and the Sangre de Cristo mountains were beautiful. Definitely worth visiting. That whole area, though, seems to be hanging on by a thread and a prayer.
I’m sure they are glad that things have opened up again but there wasn’t a lot of mask wearing in Westcliffe. Very few cases may have made them complacent. I just hope tourists don’t bring Covid to them because medical care is not readily available. The nearest hospital was in Canon City, an hour away.
Downtown Victor, Colorado. No casinos here, and populations that went from 18,000 around the year 1900 to a few over 400 now.
We spent a little time higher in the mountains when we went to visit the gorge and Cripple Creek. Cripple Creek would also have been an interesting town to explore but most of it is casinos now and they were closed. Again, the town has survived because it adapted. There is also an active gold mine there. Huge piles of spoils surround the mines and I wasn’t super impressed with their reclamation efforts. Think of that next time you buy a gold piece of jewelry.
People tell me the desert and the grasslands are like the ocean. Never quite got that. But the way the light moves across these landscapes, the sunsets and the wind moving through the wheat fields is beautiful. The land has its moods, as does the ocean, but they are very different.
Although I love seeing these places, I am not drawn to this land. It does not replace the ocean for me as a preferred place. That being said, I did have a good time out there and if you like remote locations and dark night skies, you should check it out.
People tell me the desert and the grasslands are like the ocean. Never quite got that. But the way the light moves across these landscapes, the sunsets and the wind moving through the wheat fields is beautiful. The land has its moods, as does the ocean, but they are very different.
Although I love seeing these places, I am not drawn to this land. It does not replace the ocean for me as a preferred place. That being said, I did have a good time out there and if you like remote locations and dark night skies, you should check it out.
Trip gallery 2020 Colorado/New Mexico trip
